Another September week in Tarifa

Spent a week in Tarifa, once again, this time between 3rd-10th of September. During the weekend I was giving a raptor workshop, organized by Fundacion Migres www.fundacionmigres.org, an NGO devoted to monitoring and studying the bird migration in the Straits, but for the rest of the time I was free to do my own birding.
Tarifa is well known for its migration of raptors, with close to half a million birds going through each autumn. Also storks go through in huge numbers and seabirds are another attraction. Still, it has never become a great destination for birders from abroad, for reasons I can’t understand. The infrastructure is there, good hotels, and nice food, wine and coffee, which you don’t get everywhere, but which give the holiday an extra twist. Tarifa has remained rather unspoilt and relaxed, and has nothing to do with the overcrowded Costa del Sol, if you thought so.
First time I came to Tarifa was in 1980, but since 1996 I have been coming regularly, often couple of times per year. It is an easy destination to reach and the raptor migration is guaranteed, as much as you can guarantee anything.
Tarifa is known for its high winds, and wind and kite surfers flock here from different corners of the continent. The wind velocity and direction also has its implications on the raptor migration. With strong winds, especially the notorious Levante (easterlies), raptors come very low, almost touching the ground negotiating rocks and bushes. In these conditions many birds don’t cross the Strait, and a huge milling of birds is formed along the coast. Sometimes thousands of birds can be involved in this impressive phenomenon. With light winds or in calm conditions the migration goes high, and the chances to get good photographs are poorer.

Adult male Honey-buzzard resting for a while before crossing the Strait

My week started with two days of strong Levante. The wind was blowing with force 6-7 on the Beaufort scale, and birds had problems to stay in the air. During these days I had several encounters of fly-by raptors, when I could only fit in the head of the bird in my view-finder! In conditions like this it is often completely impossible to follow the birds with your camera, as your body refuses to turn because of forces of the wind. If you opened an umbrella in these conditions it probably would fly you to the moon. During these days not even the surfers dared to go to sea.
By the third day the wind had dropped and we got a massive passage of kites, honey-buzzards, booted and short-toed eagles, thousands! My friends from the Fundacion also trapped Black Kites on this day, and managed to trap 93 in one go in a cage-trap. Ringing, measuring and fitting them with transmitters took the team all evening, and in the end they went out of rings. I was amazed by the sight of so many raptors in our hands, but my friends said this was nothing compared to the 700 they caught in the same cage in one go a few years back! After several days of strong Levante up to 10 000 Black Kites may roost in the Tarifa area, waiting for suitable conditions to cross the Straits to Africa.

93 Black Kites in a cage!

The best birds during my stay were two Rüppell’s Vultures, seen on the 8th, and two young Spanish Imperial Eagles, which were seen on many days from different observatories in the area. Personally I focused this time on Eurasian Honey-buzzard, Black Kite and Montagu’s Harrier, trying to improve on the images for my forthcoming in-flight guide to WP raptors.

Juvenile male Montagu's Harrier hunting near Facinas

If ever you go to Tarifa, which I can warmly recommend, there are a few things you should do, apart from enjoying the migration. Take a whale safari to the Straits. They last for about two hours and cost around 30 euro. You have chances of seeing Pilot Whales, three species of dolphins, Orcas, Fin Whales and even Sperm Whales. Apart from the marine mammals you also have good chances to see Cory’s and Balearic Shearwaters and many other species, all depending on the timing of your visit. Later in the season Razorbills, Puffins, Great Skuas and Gannets become more numerous and are easily seen.

Cory's Shearwater photographed during a whale-watching cruise in the Strait, but beware, the sea is rarely this flat.

Another thing you should try is a Churro breakfast. Churros are traditional Spanish deepfried donuts, shaped like sausages. You have them with a cup of hot thick chocolate, dipping the churros in the drink. The best place to enjoy them is La Palmera, a small family business by the harbour. This is where the locals go and it is always crowded as soon as it opens at 7 am (still pitch dark at that time!). A portion of churros, big enough to keep you going for most of the day, a cup of chocolate and another of café con leche cost me 3 euros 50 cents. Not bad for a breakfast.

churros and a cup of hot chocolate

Last morning, mist over the Strait. The high mountain in the distance is Jebel Musa on the Moroccan side, which reaches over 2000m a.s.l.