Did a week’s recce with my son for an upcoming birding cruise in March, on the Finnish m/s Kristina Regina, sailing on the Red Sea between various ports in Egypt and Jordan.
29.12. Direct charter flight Helsinki - Sharm el Sheikh, where we arrived at 1400hrs. Our ship was waiting in the port. Boarded the ship and sailed out in the evening.
30.12. Arriving in Safaga on the Egyptian Red Sea coast by early morning. Birded the coast and the Eastern Desert between Safaga and Hurghada, where there was very little to see at this time of year. Reef Egrets and White-eyed Gulls were seen in Safaga port and in Hurghada, where we also had a few Sooty Gulls. A pair of Lanner Falcons was hunting pigeons over the outskirts of Hurghada town and Ospreys were seen in several places along the coast. The bird of the day was a pair of Desert Eagle Owls, which gave unforgettable views, while a pair of confiding Ospreys catered for some excellent photo opportunities. Left Safaga after dark, heading NE towards the Gulf of Aqaba and Jordan.
31.12. Arriving in Aqaba, Jordan before noon. Most of the birding was done at the sewage dams by the Israeli border. This is a closed military area, and written permits are needed to enter the facilities. Yellow-vented Bulbuls and Little Green Bee-eaters at the entrance were soon followed by an adult Greater Spotted Eagle and some 1000 Great Cormorants by the pools. The pools also held some ducks and waders, but nothing unexpected. Two Ferruginous Ducks were probably the most exciting birds.
1.1.All day birding the desert of Wadi Rum, some 60 kms NE of Aqaba. Wadi Rum is a stunningly beautiful desert, but it is also under extremely hard pressure from the increasing tourism. Desert camps can be found almost everywhere, and the jeep caravans criss-cross the desert from dawn till dusk. The jeeps are supposed to stick to marked trails, but wheel-tracks can be seen everywhere. Perhaps not the peaceful desert experience you’d hoped for.
The Wadi Rum itself was rather thin on birds, but we found a group of Sinai Rosefinches in one of the narrow canyons, including three stunning adult males. On a flat sandy plain with some bushes we saw some Desert Warblers and a bonus male Menetries’s Warbler, a bird I didn’t expect to see on this tour. Other birds of interest were Blackstart, Bar-tailed Desert Lark, Hooded, Mourning, White-crowned Black, Isabelline and Desert Wheatears, 2 Barbary Falcons, 2 sub-adult Imperial Eagles and 1 subad Steppe Eagle, 30 Cranes, Desert and Trumpeter Finches and, in all, 4 different juv Steppe Grey Shrikes Lanius pallidirostris. Many of the birds were seen in the irrigated areas north of Wadi Rum. All in all, the best birding day of the whole trip.
Left Aqaba after dark heading for Suez.
2.1. All day at sea, passing the southern tip of Sinai, Ras Mohammad, at dawn, reaching Suez just before midnight. Extremely quiet at sea, only a few Yellow-legged Gull-type birds in mid-morning. At 1930hrs, nearly three hours after sunset, I noticed some 20+ Slender-billed Gulls following the boat, trying to find something to eat in the flood-lit water next to the boat. They followed the vessel, frequently changing in number, until at least 2300 hrs, when I decided to retire. This behaviour is interesting, and seems somehow to be more pronounced in this species compared to other gulls. I noticed exactly the same nocturnal behaviour also on the sea between Banjul, The Gambia and Dakar, Senegal in Jan-Feb 2005, 2006 and 2007, but there the Slender-bills were from time to time joined by some Audouin’s Gulls and Common Terns.
3.1. Birding around Suez, checking out some sites for the spring tour. Generally very quiet, except for the thousands of Indian House Crows, which at times recalled scenes out of Hitchcock’s “Birds”. The Corniche at the sea-front had a few hundred waders at low tide in the afternoon, with several Greater Sand Plovers, Curlews and a Bar-tailed Godwit among the new birds for the trip-list. One Swift Tern (Sterna bergii) was seen at Ain Sokhna, some 60 kms south of Suez, while a Common Bulbul in the harbour was also the only one seen. Left Suez after dark.
4.1. Morning at sea, reaching Sharm el Sheikh at the southern tip of Sinai at 1100 hrs. As expected, very quiet at sea, with only a few adult Baltic Gulls (Larus fuscus fuscus) and some cachinnans-type Yellow-legged Gulls. No Red Sea specialities, no cetaceans, no turtles. Cruising the Red Sea at this time of year was rather disappointing. Most of the time I felt I could as well have been on a pelagic on the Dead Sea!
Once in Sharm, I birded areas between Sharm and Nabq in the afternoon. The sewage plant W of the airport had three different Imperial Eagles (two juvs, one second winter), one juv Bonelli’s Eagle, a male Hooded Wheatear, some wintering ducks (teal, shoveler, wigeon), coots and some waders. A smaller, fenced sewage pond near the northern end of the airstrip had two juv Imperials, which may have been the same birds as seen before. A Hoopoe Lark seen there was the first of the trip, while a single Bar-tailed Desert Lark was another nice find.
The most surprising record was a flock of 100 circling Black Kites, slowly drifting into the wind, heading north at Nabq, an early date for a migrant flock of this size. Many of the juveniles were extremely well marked, showing characters of the ssp. lineatus. They could, however, not be seen close enough to see all the salient features of this subspecies (colour of eyes and bare parts, etc.), so they could well have been intermediates between lineatus and migrans. The harbour had only one quartering White-eyed Gull.
5.1. On the boat in the harbour waiting for and transport to the airport. Three White-eyed Gulls in the Harbour being the only bird worth mentioning.